I would love it if my horses could go barefoot. But living in New England where there often seem to be more rocks than dirt, it just hasn’t worked out for me. At least, not entirely. I know some people believe that you can keep any horse barefoot with the right trim, but it’s just not been my experience. I think whether you can go barefoot depends on:
- The natural quality of your horse’s hoof. I think that hoof quality can be improved with good nutrition, but some horses just have better feet.
- Terrain. Where you ride your horse has a lot to do with its comfort barefoot.
- The horse’s job. I could take one of my horses barefoot if I didn’t foxhunt, but galloping over hard ground and sometimes rocky terrain is just too much for him.
- A good barefoot trimmer. When it comes to barefoot, not all farriers are created equal. I think it really helps to use one who specializes in barefoot trims.
I’ve had my Trakehner gelding barefoot behind for the past seven years. He’s got good strong feet which hold up reasonably well under most circumstances although he’s always had flat front feet and experienced slow growth. When I started foxhunting, however, I found that I needed more protection for him to be comfortable. At that point, he started to get painful bruising and the occasional abscess so I added pads to the front and shoes behind.
That worked fine until he managed to pull both hind shoes off in the mud during a 24 hour period when I was out of town. I came home to find that he had swelling in one leg and not enough horn to nail shoes to on either hind foot!
In desperation, I turned to hoof boots. I wanted to keep him fit and I needed to keep him comfortable. I’d always had the spare Easyboot around for those times when I needed to protect a hoof until a farrier arrived, but had never had any luck with keeping them on for any riding or real work. So armed with a measuring tape, a pencil and pad, I started tracing his hind feet and trying various hoof boots.
First I tried the Easyboot Epic, which comes with a gaiter. Within 72 hours he’d broken both of them; on one the gaiter ripped, on the other the latching mechanism snapped off. Good thing they come with a warranty!
Next, I tried Old Macs. Now I know they’ve changed them since I bought my set, but the older ones were huge and clunky. They stayed on okay, but they were not something that I felt would work well over the long term. Since then, they have introduced the G2 design which looks better — not so large and with a lower profile, so I can’t comment on how they might work.
I bought Boa boots to replace the Old Macs, but had similar issues. I did like the mechanism for tightening the boot and they were very easy to put on, but I found them to be clunky and heavy, and they rubbed my horse.
Cavallo Simple Boots looked great and they truly are simple to apply. However, they simply didn’t fit. My horse’s hind feet are more oval than round and after 10 minutes I took them off so that I could resell them on eBay.
The winner in my book is the Easyboot Bare. They are a difficult to get on the first few times (see my review) but worth the effort. These boots are a lower profile boot that sit close to the hoof and are supposed to flex and stretch like a natural hoof. There are very few moving parts, so there is less to break, and if one does, all pieces can be ordered as replacement parts. I’ve been using my pair now for about a year (I only use them once or twice a week as terrain demands) and they have held up very well. I gallop in them, go through mud and water, and even jump without any problems.
There are some boots that I’d like to try. Renegade hoof boots get good reviews and come in cool colors. There are HorseMocs, Horse Sneakers, Soft-Ride, to list just a few. The bottom line is that not all boots fit all horses. You must measure carefully and choose a boot that is shaped similarly to your horse’s hoof. You also need to measure front and hind hooves separately; not only are the often different sizes, but they are usually different shapes. Rear hooves are typically more oval, while front hooves are rounder.
In short, I think that hoof boots are an excellent product. I know that some folks use them to help take their horse barefoot, and I can see how it would help a horse make the transition while minimizing soreness. They are also ideal if you have a horse that needs additional hoof protection for some parts of its job, but is fine barefoot with others. Hoof boots are an economical choice compared to shoes as they last a long time. They also eliminate the issue of nail holes — and if you have a horse that exhibits slow growth, like I do, you don’t want to put shoes on for just part of the year as it will take months for those nail holes to grow out.
I am usually the only foxhunter out there with hoof boots (and bitless) and they are certainly not something you would see in the show ring. However, I think if you look at endurance riders, you’ll find that hoof boots are both acceptable and durable. It’s a shame that they haven’t extended their use to other disciplines as well.





As Hay Prices Soar Forage Alternatives Become more Compelling
April 30, 2008 · Leave a Comment
For the first time in seven years my hay supplier is flat out. It’s a problem here in New England. It will be several months before the first cutting is in and my horses, at least, don’t have enough grass to sustain them.
The good news is that hay is available, but the price is high. Right now decent (not great) 2nd cutting is about $10 for a square bale that weighs about 50 lbs. Delivery is extra. The combination of a poor growing season last year and the high price of gas has just made prices spiral upwards.
My horses get no grain (just a ration balancer), so their diet is forage based. They each eat about 25 lbs of forage per day, so it’s running me $10/day in hay. Just a few years ago the same hay was $4/bale — quite a difference!
In anticipation of the hay shortage, I started hoarding hay over the winter. I only have room for about 150 bales, but I filled my loft with beautiful second cut hay when I could and started supplementing their hay with forage alternatives. In my quest to make my hay last I looked at chopped hay, hay stretcher, hay cubes and beet pulp.
Chopped hay is forage that is dried at high temperature, chopped and bagged. In the past I’ve fed Totally Timothy, by Lucerne Farms. Several of their feeds — including this one — are blended with a low sugar molasses, although they recently introduced one that is molasses free. I tried it because one of my horses has a dust/mold allergy and was really suffering one spring. I also had a mare who didn’t eat much hay but was a hard keeper and I wanted to encourage her to eat more forage, rather than continually increasing her grain.
This was a total taste test winner, according to my horses. They would walk through fire for Totally Timothy — they like it that much. There is a lot that I liked about it, too.
Ingredients are: dehydrated chopped timothy hay, cane molasses, and proprionic acid (preservative).
The nutritional profile is:
Protein: 7%
Fat: 1%
Fiber: 30%
Calcium: 0.3% min; 0.5% max
Phosphorous: 0.1%
The disadvantages that I’ve found are that 1) it’s expensive and 2) the horses eat it quickly. They finish off their ration in short order and that deprives them of the entertainment factor of heating their forage throughout the day. I prefer them to nibble for several hours, especially as one of my horses tends to crib or weave when he doesn’t have something to eat.
Hay Stretcher pellets were recommended by my vet as a way to keep weight on a horse without providing unnecessary energy. I buy hay pellets from Blue Seal and feed them to my horses with their ration balancer, to make them feel like they’re getting a meal, and in an outside feeder as a supplement to their hay.
Hay Stretcher is a large pellet with a nutritional profile similar to grass hay, but slightly lower in fiber and higher in energy. You can use it to replace up to one-half of your horse’s total forage needs, substituting it on a pound-to-pound basis. It is not fortified with any vitamins or minerals so is not a replacement or a complete feed.
Currently I feed about 4 lbs of hay stretcher daily to each of my horses, but as my “real” hay supply dwindles, that might increase. It is highly palatable to them and they always finish it up. It has many of the benefits of chopped forage:
The disadvantages are that 1) it is not a long-stem forage so it does not provide the digestive fiber that horses require and 2) it is pricey (not as expensive as chopped forage but still more than hay), and like chopped forage, horses eat it quickly. I’m currently paying $12.95 for a 50 lb bag.
Ingredients: Dehydrated Alfalfa meal, Wheat middlings, Oat Mill by-products, Cane Molasses, Calcium Carbonate.
The nutritional profile is:
Protein: 11.5% min
Fat: 2 %
Fiber: 20%
Calcium: Min. 0.80 – Max. 1.30
Phosphorous: Min. 0.45
Beet pulp is another good source of forage. It is the fiber that is left over when sugar is extracted from beets. It is high in fermentable fiber and easy for horses to digest. In fact, beet pulp is an ingredient in many commercial horse feeds (Purina Ultium and Blue Seal Vintage Victory, for example), but it can also be fed separately.
Beet pulp is available either in shreds or in pellets. Much of it has some molasses in it, but it is also available without it. Typically beet pulp is fed soaked, although, contrary to rumor, most horses can eat dry beet pulp without problems. There’s a lot of debate and misinformation about beet pulp (for example, it does NOT expand in a horse’s stomach if fed dry), but it is a feed that can cause choke in horses that eat quickly or that or prone to it. Another myth is that beet pulp is high in calories and can be used to help put weight on hard keepers. In fact, beet pulp has fewer calories than the equivalent weight in oats and only slightly more calories than good quality hay. Since you measure/weigh beet pulp dry, you would need to feed an awful lot of it to really add significant calories. Beet pulp can be used to replace up to 50% of a horse’s total forage needs.
Benefits of feeding beet pulp include:
The disadvantages of beet pulp are that 1) Soaking takes extra time and effort (not all barns will accommodate the request); 2) some horses find it unpalatable, and 3) in the summer, beet pulp will ferment if left soaking for too long.
Nutritional profile:
Protein: 9.5 -10 %
Calcium: 0.8%
Phosphorous: 0.5%
Sugar: 10 % average
Starch: 1.3% average
Finally, there are hay cubes. They are generally available as either alfalfa or alfalfa/timothy but I’ve also seen cubes that were alfalfa/beet pulp. They are made from hays that are either dehydrated or sun cured. They provide long-stem fiber and have similar nutritional profiles to conventional hay. Many people soak hay cubes before feeding them, but unless your horse is prone to choke, that isn’t necessary. However, soaking the cubes does help with hydration and allows them to fed to horses that have difficulty chewing.
The advantages of feedings cubes include:
The disadvantages associated with feeding cubes are 1) they are expensive. I am currently paying $14.95 for a 50# bag of alfalfa/timothy cubes; 2) you need to limit consumption as horses will eat too much of them; and 3) if your horse is prone to choke, they need to be soaked before feeding.
I have not put a nutritional profile for the hay cubes as it will differ depending on they type of hay they are made from.
All in all, I’ve found that feeding forage alternatives has been a successful way of extending my hay supply. While they all do cost more, on balance the difference is not as much as the price tag would suggest as the horses consume all of their Hay Stretcher and hay cubes without any waste.
Additional Resources:
Categories: 1 · Commentary · equestrian · equine · equine nutrition · horses
Tagged: beet pulp, chopped hay, forage, Hay alternatives, hay cubes, hay stretcher, horses, Totally Timothy